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First Ascents

California Shawangunks Seneca Rocks First Ascents

 

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A first ascent is when you climb something that has not been climbed by anyone before. First ascents can be exciting, because you really don't know where you are going, how hard it will be -- and in some cases -- how you're going to get down! Part of the fun of a first ascent is that you get to name the climb yourself.

Actually, the title of this page could be First (and last) Ascents. Since most of these climbs are very poor quality.

 

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Life of Brian (5.6) with Jacqui Moore. I had spotted this route from a distance and had it in my mind for 3 years. When we finally went to do it, it was bland and the rock was rotten. Fortunately, when the rock was at its worst, a chimney appeared to make that section passable. There is a terrific looking steep crack near the second shadow line (above the climber in the photo) that surmounts the dihedral/headwall. But with all the rotten rock, we opted for the easier route around to the right.

This 2 pitch route follows a dihedral to the top of a pinnacle. Descent is made by rappel, then 3rd class scramble. It is located far up Eagle Creek Canyon near Lake Tahoe, CA. The name is derived from false hopes and Jacqui's departed friend.  Photo by Jerry Klatt 9/96.

 

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Donuts... Is There Anything They Can't Do? (5.6) with Jennifer Gibson and Rick Iwatsubo. The first section is on solid rock. When you turn the corner through the chimney, things get rotten, and gear is sparse.

This 1 pitch route follows the face next to a dihedral with a huge crack. Then goes through a slot/chimney to the top. Descent is made by scrambling down a sandy gully. It is located 22.5 miles east of Rte. 395 near Tioga Rd. on a non-descript, but large jumble of rocks on the left.  Photo by Rick Iwatsubo 8/98.

 

Not Shown

Jam 'n' Bludder (5.8). Led by Jerry Klatt with Rick Iwatsubo. A 1 pitch route located on a huge boulder on the way to Life of Brian (above). Steep, rough hand-jams for 50 feet. Jerry's blood (from the rough hand jams) is probably still on the route. 8/95.

Stone Scone (5.8). Led by Jennifer Gibson. A 1 pitch route located 100 yards north of Donuts (above). 8/98.

Raspberry Crumble (5.8). Led by Jennifer Gibson with John Payne. A 1 pitch route located 20 feet left of Stone Scone. This was one of the boldest leads that I have ever witnessed. The rock was so rotten, it was raining on me as I belayed. Jennifer led past at least three 5.8 cruxes while holds were breaking off all around. 8/98.

 

 

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