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jtree.jpg (39944 bytes)      Joshua Tree

A bizarre landscape, weird "trees" (yuccas, actually), and the yelping of hundreds of coyotes to wake you up in the night. Even if you don't climb, Joshua Tree should be on your list of places to visit.

My favorite routes so far: Sail Away (5.8-), Double Cross (5.7++)

Best Joshua Tree climbing quote: "5.6, my butt" -- Jeff Stedifor on The Mikado. Actually, similar quotes were heard from several sources on many climbs on that trip.

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Another all-time favorite - Sail Away (5.8-). This climb draws a crowd, and for good reason. Joshua Tree has about 4,000 routes, many of dubious quality. But when they're good, they're great.  Photo by Rick Iwatsubo 11/94.

 

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Jeff Stedifor climbing The Mikado (5.6).  Photo by Jacqui Moore 2/98.

 

 

pinnacles.jpg (43090 bytes)         Pinnacles

Speaking of bizarre... The rock at the Pinnacles consists of stones "welded" into ancient compressed volcanic ash. When you come across a pocket hold, remember -- that's where one of those stones used to be. Just hope that you are not the next poor sap to have a hold pop while you're climbing. Actually, the routes recommended in the guide book are on fairly stable rock. But the incessant rain of pebbles from above is still a bit unsettling.

My favorite routes so far: Rat Race (5.7), Monolith Regular Route (5.6 R+), Ordeal (5.8).

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Hey Bob, what's all that gear for? - Monolith Direct (5.8). As this was one of the first climbs we did at the Pinnacles, we didn't know that this route is entirely bolted. Better safe than sorry, I guess.  Photo by John Payne 2/95.

 

 

cal14ers.jpg (39233 bytes)         High Sierra

Of all the places to climb in California, I think I'll miss the High Sierra most.

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Contemplating Charlotte Dome. With John, Jacqui, Rick, Jerry, and Jennifer. A hike of about 13 miles with up to 70 pounds on our backs put us here at one of the most spectacular in-situ camp sites we could imagine. Almost 2,000 feet of Charlotte Dome loom in the background.  Photo by Max Random 7/97.

 

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Pitch 5 on Charlotte Dome (5.7+). After the first 3 pitches, we weren't sure if we were on-route. When we finally saw the dike and this dihedral, we knew we were on the right track. The next pitch involved a steep 5.8-ish runout for 30 feet above a nut in a flared seam (I'm following in the photo, so guess who got to lead that pitch?).  If that wasn't enough, on pitch 8 (5.5), my only  foot-hold broke off and left me hanging from one hand 20 feet above Jerry's head with no good gear between us. Still, with 10 technical pitches -- each one distinct, it is one incredible climb!  Photo by Jerry Klatt 7/97.

 

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Signing the summit register at 8:30 pm. on the summit of Charlotte Dome (10,690').  Photo by Jennifer Gibson 7/97.

 

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With Rick, Jerry, and John on the way up Mt. Whitney (highest peak in the background). We wanted to climb the East Face or East Buttress route. The day before our summit attempt, we had pouring rain, snow, sleet, hail, and huge lightning bolts hit the summit twice. So on summit day we thought we'd play it safe and hike up the 4th class Mountaineers Route instead. If the weather moved in again, we could bail out easily. Sensible, right?...         Photo by Lorna Payne 8/96.

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... Yes, but the weather the next day was gorgeous. Jerry and I had left our gear at Upper Boy Scout Lake. It would have taken over an hour to retrieve it and start the climb very late. So, we got to the summit anyway -- just not the way we wanted to.  Photo by Max Random 8/96.

 

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On the summit of Mt. Whitney (14,495').  Photo by Jerry Klatt 8/96.

 

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With Jennifer on Cathedral Peak (5.6,  10,940'). I hadn't had much luck climbing the Southeast Buttress of Cathedral Peak. When Richard and I attempted this climb 2 years prior, we were within 20' of the summit in the rain with our bodies buzzing from static lightning charge (yes, very scary). We had done the last 3 pitches so fast, I hardly remember them -- and then we had to skirt the summit so as not to get struck by lightning. This time the weather was great, but I had somehow hyper-extended my knee the day before the climb. After hiking 3 miles to the base, I wasn't sure if I would be able to climb. Well, we did it, and it was a great climb on a great day!  Photo by John Payne 8/98.

 

shasta.jpg (46943 bytes)         Mt. Shasta

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With Richard and Jim atop Misery Hill on Mt. Shasta (14,162'). Misery Hill is a false summit. Right about here is where you realize that you still have 1/2 mile to go the the true summit. Our slog up Avalanche Gulch involved a 10 mile round-trip, 6,500' elevation gain (the last 3,500 with crampons and ice axe,) high camp on the snow at 10,400' on Helen Lake, and glissading down the Red Banks. All this on over 10 feet of snow in July!  Photo by Rick "never do Shasta again" Iwatsubo 7/96.

 

 

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